Torres del Paine | Chile
El Ultimo Puesto
Overview
In recent years, the remote Torres del Paine region of Chile has become synonymous with adventure, breathtaking landscapes, and authentic Patagonian culture. Though each season this far southern region welcomes a rapidly growing number of travelers and adventure-seekers, it has remained almost entirely off the radar for anglers, despite its claim to some of the best dry-fly fishing in all of Patagonia.
El Ultimo Puesto (The Last Place) is a new and exclusive destination perched near the border of Torres del Paine National Park that caters to just four guests per week. Located on a remote part of a private estancia, which encompasses over 30,000 hectares, and completely removed from the crowds of Puerto Natales and large “adventure hotels,” the Puesto offers visiting anglers access to over 35 miles of private, wild trout water, as well as welcoming non-anglers to enjoy a host of other activities such as hiking, horseback riding, wildlife viewing, sightseeing, and more.
The Fishing
Fly fishing at El Ultimo Puesto is exclusively a walk-and-wade endeavor—one in which dry fly fishing is the primary (and often, the only) focus. Each day anglers depart from the lodge to explore 20 miles of private spring creek water, 15 private miles of freestone river shared only with the neighboring estancia, as well as other private creeks, lagunas, and additional river miles located within the ranch. Wading throughout the estancia is easy, with guides able to transport clients directly to the creek and river by vehicle.
The Creek
Our spring creek is special. Exclusively the domain of brown trout which seem to almost always be looking up, it features some of the finest dry-fly and sight fishing found anywhere in Patagonia. For much of its course, the creek meanders wildly, its oxbows and bends almost touching each other as it winds its way through the pampa — offering anglers an almost endless conveyor belt of corner pools, cutbanks, riffles, runs, and flats. An average spring creek brown trout is 20 inches in length, with catches up to 24 inches common and specimens as large as 26 inches swimming in its waters.
The River
On the other side of the estancia, the river courses through the pampa, forming the border with the neighboring estancia. As it flows, it cuts steep banks through the pastureland — some as high as 20 feet tall. This is hopper-fishing territory, where the river’s brown trout are eager to move several feet to chase down a big meal. In autumn, the river is also home to large, migratory, silver-sided brown trout that run upriver from distant, downstream lakes.
The Big River
During most of the season, the “big river” isn’t much more than an afterthought, its glacially-tinted waters home to only a small population of smaller-than-average brown trout. But come March and April, the river is home to a migration of lake-run brown trout. Uncharacteristically aggressive for migratory fish, these lake-run browns — which can stretch the tape to 28 inches or longer — are eager streamer eaters.
Non-Angling Activities
Torres del Paine National Park and its surrounding region has become the most popular destination in Chilean Patagonia for adventure-seekers and other travelers. The park’s famed O and W hiking routes draw over 100,000 hikers each year, its famed peaks — Torres del Paine, Cuernos del Paine, and Paine Grande — awe sightseers and other travelers, and it is a hotspot for wildlife viewing. Grey and red fox, guanaco, rhea, huemul deer, armadillos, and Andean condors are found throughout the park and Torres del Paine is widely recognized as the best place on the planet to see the elusive puma. For most visitors, accessing the park requires long daily transits from busy Puerto Natales or expensive stays at all-inclusive large resorts inside the park. Guests of El Ultimo Puesto have access to everything the park offers and more. For those looking for something closer to home, hiking, horseback riding, excellent wildlife viewing, and more are available right on the estancia.
Accomodations
LODGING: Initially constructed almost 70 years ago as a gaucho’s cabin, perched behind a small hillside overlooking the Torres del Paine massif and Sierra Baguales, El Ultimo Puesto Lodge is steeped in history. Wood-burning stoves warm this inviting and cozy space, adorned with hardwood floors and hand-hewn solid wood doors, both built from timber harvested from nearby Lenga forests. For the last several decades, the cabin has been utilized to host equestrians, hosting as many as 10 riders at any given time. Today, the updated and converted cabin — now a small and intimate lodge — is the exclusive domain of no more than four guests per week.
DINING: Guests will enjoy three chef-prepared meals each day as well as a selection of appetizers and hors d'oeuvres following daily fishing or other activities. Hearty breakfasts feature both Chilean and American staples such as breads, cereals, yogurts, eggs, meats, and fresh fruits. Lunches, typically served streamside, are hearty and filling — often including soups, stews, and sandwiches. Dinners feature pasture-raised Patagonian beef and lamb, local seafood, locally grown produce, and freshly baked breads. A curated selection of Chilean wines, hand-crafted cocktails, fine spirits, and local ales are also available at the lodge’s always-open bar.
CONNECTIVITY: Enjoy high-speed Starlink WiFi access while at the lodge. Cellular service is spotty, but available.
Sample Itinerary
At the far end of a private ranch that itself is at the dead end of a gravel road, this is about as far as you can get from the tourist traffic that buzzes around the park — and all while still being in striking distance, with always-there views of there Torres del Paine and Sierra Baguales. Enjoy peace and tranquility and some of the best stargazing you’ll find anywhere on the planet at our little lodge.
The creek’s upper sections, located only footfalls from the lodge, are some of its most productive. As the creek twists its way through the landscape, anglers ply bend pools, riffles, runs and other likely holding water where they can target both actively rising fish and those that will jump (often literally) at the chance to take swipe at a well-presented terrestrial, mayfly, or attractor pattern.
Anglers who love fishing flies like Fat Alberts, Chubby Chernobyls and other beetle and grasshopper imitations love this sun-soaked section, where brown trout sit in the shade lines created by the river’s steep cutbanks, ready to ambush big bugs that splash down on the water’s surface. The always-there, towering views of the Paine massif don’t hurt, either.
In its lowest reaches, the creek widens, pushing through fields of tall green grasses, flowing lazily, offering anglers excellent opportunities to hunt noses of rising trout when mayflies are actively hatching. If that doesn’t sound good enough, consider that a day spent on the lower spring creek includes a midday break for a large asado at the estancia’s quincho.
In its middle sections, the creek courses through large stands of willows and expansive tracts of Mata Negra. Here, deep, shaded pools harbor some of the creek’s largest trout.
The lower river is no less of a destination for hopper aficionados, but its somewhat calmer flows and wider pools seem to offer an increased opportunity to lure rising trout with large mayfly patterns. Size 12 Adams, anyone?
Off-color and populated only by small fish most of the year, the big river isn’t much of a destination throughout the spring and summer months. Come March and April, however, the lake-run migration begins, sending pulses of large, migrating, silver-sided fish up the river in preparation for spawning. Unlike most migratory fish, these trout aren’t often tight-lipped. The angling challenge doesn’t come in convincing these fish to eat, but in finding the run. Once you do, you’ll usually end up with your rod doubled over and your reel screaming.
Guests of El Ultimo Puesto can take advantage of a host of opportunities without ever leaving the estancia, including hiking, horseback riding, tours of the estancia’s sheep operation, wildlife viewing (foxes, condors, rhea, armadillos, and excellent bird watching opportunities, just to name a few). Those willing to venture a bit farther can take in everything the Torres del Paine region has to offer, including hiking, sightseeing, tours of the Grey Glacier, and much more. Non-angling activities come at no additional cost provided two guests are participating in the same daily itinerary.
Included
- Ground transporation Round trip transfers between PNT and the lodge
- Lodging Double occupancy rooms in a cozy lodge
- Meals 3 chef-prepared meals plus appetizers and snacks daily
- Beverages Alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages included
- Equipment Loaner rods, reels, fly lines and terminal tackle
- Flies Want to leave your fly boxes at home? Go ahead.
- Guided fishing and activities Daily guided fishing or other activities
- Licenses Permits and other licenses for your trip
Getting There
Most anglers and other travelers visiting El Ultimo Puesto fly to Puerto Natales, Chile (PNT), which is serviced by several major airlines within Chile. From Puerto Natales, it's an included, 90-minute transfer to the lodge. Alternatively, guests may also travel through Punta Arenas (PUQ) or El Calafate, Argentina (FTE).
