Crescent Spur | Canada
Crescent Spur Lodge
Overview
The wild and remote rivers of the Cariboo Mountains in south-central British Columbia are the migratory home of some of the world's largest and most aggressive bull trout. These native summer-run char surge into the frigid, high-country waters of the Cariboos every year starting in early July, moving up from larger downstream rivers and lakes where they spend their winters growing to impressive lengths.
Crescent Spur Lodge, situated on the banks of the mighty Fraser River as it slices through the mountains on its way to the sea, offers helicopter-assisted fly fishing for these magnificent fish. The classic mountain retreat that doubles as a heli-skiing operation in the winter, provides a luxurious retreat for adventurous anglers who'll spend their days flying through tight canyons and tickling the treetops of this inland rainforest, all with the sole intent of connecting with some of western Canada's most primal native char. Evenings offer chef-prepared meals, a fully stocked bar, and delightfully comfortable gathering areas. Non-anglers can choose from a host of activities, from a day trip to beautiful Jasper to a golf outing in Prince George or a complete heli-assisted hiking program. Crescent Spur can keep all guests busy in this stunning corner of British Columbia.
The Fishing
The fishing from Crescent Spur is solely focused on the big bull trout that call the rivers and streams of the Cariboos home during the summer months. There are some nice rainbows around, and king salmon can be found in these rivers, too, but, with the help of the lodge's spacious Jet Ranger II, anglers can really dial in on the burly migratory char that readily chase streamers and, on occasion, skated mouse patterns. With literally hundreds of river miles to choose from, guides will plan a day that generally includes several "bumps" (pickups and drop-offs via the chopper) in order to find the fish and then move throughout a chosen river system.
Bull trout are a mystery to most fly fishers, and they are often under-appreciated and misunderstood. But their sinister dispositions make them ideal fly-rod quarry, and their sheer size makes them worthy of any dedicated long-rodder's attention. The guides from Crescent Spur have years of bull trout experience — they know where to find these mysterious char and, when they do, they know how to fish for them. Anglers will get a crash course in big-fly angling for these migratory fish that chase fly patterns that are anything but subtle.
Non-angling Activities
While Crescent Spur, during the summer months, is a bona fide fly fishing lodge, it does offer some non-angling activities for guests who don't fish, or who might like a day off amid their time in British Columbia. Guests can visit Jasper National Park about two hours east of the lodge for sightseeing, and a round of golf is but 45 minutes away in Prince George. For hikers, the lodge offers a complete heli-hiking program at a different rate altogether, meaning an avid angler can come to Crescent Spur with a hiking enthusiast interested stunning day treks, and both guests can enjoy their time at the lodge.
Accomodations
LODGING: Crescent Spur is eminently comfortable and offers guests spacious rooms with balcony views, ensuite bathrooms, and daily housekeeping. The lodge itself is stunning and features a full bar, three distinct indoor gathering areas, an outdoor hot tub, and an outdoor fire pit.
DINING: The lodge's chef-prepared meals are out of this world, and the same chef has honed his craft at Crescent Spur for 15 seasons. Dinners are plated and delivered with fanfare, and each meal is accompanied by a stellar choice of British Columbia wines. Breakfasts are served buffet style, and include eggs to order, sausage, bacon, biscuits, and pastries, or special breakfast dishes, like eggs Benedict, are often prepared for guests. Lunches are ideal for a day spent in and out of the helicopter — thoughtfully portioned sandwiches, chips, thermos-warmed soups, and a dessert — and easy to eat between fishing sessions. Appetizers that range from fresh ceviche to delectable sliders are served at 6 p.m. in the bar, where a trained bartender can concoct most cocktails on any guest's wish list.
CONNECTIVITY: The lodge boasts a strong internet signal, and cell service is surprisingly robust in the region.
Sample Itinerary
Upon arrival on an afternoon flight to Prince George, you will be driven to Crescent Spur Lodge, about 45 minutes due east of the airport. The lodge is a classic log-constructed compound that includes the main lodge building and all guest accommodations. After arriving, your hosts will show you to your room, where you can unpack and get settled. The bar is open, and appetizers are served at 6, and dinner is at 7 p.m. sharp. Don't stay up too late — breakfast starts at 7 a.m., and the chopper leaves promptly at 8:30 each morning.
You'll gear up in the lodge's spacious wader room — keep in mind, this place is a ski lodge in the winter, so there's lots of room to spread out — and wander out to the helipad for your first flight in the Jet Ranger, a capable and comfortable helicopter that transports Crescent Spur guests into the backcountry. From the lodge, the flight can vary anywhere from just a few minutes to half an hour or more. Your guide will often ask the pilot to dip down into a drainage and fly just a few dozen feet off the ground to get a look at a river and its likely holding water for the big bull trout that are migrating into these smaller waters from larger rivers and lakes well downstream. Eventually, the bird will land, and, before you know it, you'll be standing at the head of classic run, getting ready to let your streamer swing through the emerald-green water in search of one of these massive native char.
As a migratory fishery, one might assume that finding these big fish as they move throughout the complex network of rivers and streams on their annual migration can be quite difficult. Truth be told, bull trout can, indeed, but a bit ghostly. That said, Crescent Spur's team of seasoned guides have been at this for a while. Generally, when the fish are found, the action is fast and unforgiving. Bull trout well over 36 inches are caught every summer, and, for the most part, when the fish are found, several come to hand before it's time to radio the chopper pilot and find a new run to swing a streamer.
The lodge's Jet Ranger is made for this country. It's able to dive into the canyons, and fly just a few feet over the tops of the tall cedars and spruce trees that thrive in this inland rainforest. Your guide and your pilot work together as they scope out the deep, green holes, gorgeous, fishy runs, and perfect tail-outs that make for likely holding water. If you're lucky, you'll be into fish just a few minutes after the rotor stops spinning.
Central BC's bull trout migrate into the Cariboos from downstream rivers and lakes, like the Fraser. On this last day, the hunt is on for a true behemoth — a bull trout stretching the tape well over 30 inches. And the best place? Where the big, glacial rivers meet super-cooled, snowmelt fed streams that course down out of the mountains. It gives new meaning to the phrase "fish where it gets dirty," and you'll soon understand why that is when a massive migratory char absolutely savages your streamer just a second after it hits the water. It's a great way to end this native char odyssey in one of Canada's most beautiful landscapes.
Say goodbye to the lodge's wonderful staff that has worked its collective tail off to ensure a top-tier experience during your stay. Over the last five days, you've enjoyed premium beers, wines, and spirits, off-the-charts chef-prepared meals, spacious rooms (single or double occupancy — no solo-angler surcharge), and a much-need nightly soak in the hot tub. That it all happens in a gorgeous and traditional log-hewn lodge with plenty of room to spread out will have you making plans for a return trip as soon as you're able. For now, you'll remember the things you loved about this wonderful lodge, and the people who made your trip so special.
Included
- Ground transportation Round-trip transfer between the airport in Prince George, B.C., and Crescent Spur Lodge
- Chef-prepared meals Buffett-style breakfast that includes coffee or espresso; a packed lunch for the river; evening appetizers; and plated gourmet meal each evening
- Guided, helicopter-assisted fly fishing Daily helicopter flights for guests and their guides into the remote Cariboo Mountains
- Lodging Spacious single- or double-occupancy rooms in the main lodge
- Beverages Non-alcoholic beverages included; cash bar
- Other amenities Hot tub, fire pit, reading/music room, pool table, fly-tying station
Getting There
Guests visiting Crescent Spur Lodge will likely spend one night on the way to the lodge in Vancouver. From there, it's a quick mid-day flight on a commuter airline to Prince George. Upon landing in the afternoon, guests will meet a representative from the lodge outside of baggage claim for the 45-minute ride to Crescent Spur.
I was very impressed with Crescent Spur. The fishing was on par or better than anything I’ve experienced in New Zealand, the lodge is immaculate, and the food is as good or better than at any luxury lodge in Patagonia.